The Craig

Terroir: Why the Napa Valley is what it is.

~ Robert Craig

Wine grapes can be grown in a wide variety of soils and climates.  In fact, every state in the USA, from Alaska to Arizona, has some production of wine.  However, moving up the ladder in terms of potential wine quality, the range of suitable conditions narrows dramatically.  At the top of this scale, the combination of soils and micro-climates needed  for maximum quality wine is quite specific.

This brings us to a concept known as “terroir”. There is no universal agreement as to what this elegant term encompasses as it relates to wine quality.  Some argue that “terroir” involves the full range of natural conditions and the human input of decision-making in grape growing and winemaking.

Personally, I prefer the more restrictive definition of terroir, which is the inherent natural attributes of a location that provide a contextually limiting framework for what can be achieved in grape quality.  A good application of this definition is found right here in California. 

The Central and Sacramento Valleys are where most of the grapes in the state are grown.  Generally deep and fertile soils and very warm temperatures characterize these two locations. These are ideal conditions for producing grapes in great quantity, but not suited for grapes of great quality. Vineyards here can produce 10 to 15 tons per acre of modest quality fruit.

In the Napa Valley and other Coastal areas, the terroir is greatly different, which is reflected in both the quality and quantity of grapes produced.  The combination of less fertile soils and more moderate summer temperatures yields grape crops of lower production but significantly better quality. 

Fog regularly rolls into Napa Valley during the summer from
nearby San Francisco Bay, contributing to cooler temperatures
and varied micro-climates.

One of the signature attributes of Napa Valley is its Mediterranean climate, with moderately warm, dry and sunny days and cooler evenings during the summer months.  This weather pattern allows the grapes to fully mature over a long growing season, without the metabolization (loss) of the acids that occurs in hotter climates. Also, soils in Napa Valley are less fertile and more well-drained than further inland.  This results in smaller grapes with more intense flavors.  Crop yields in Napa Valley generally range from 2.5 to 5 tons per acre.

The interplay of soils and microclimates is another hallmark of Napa Valley.  In this regard, Napa is an extraordinarily diverse location.  The Valley is only about 30 miles long and ranges between 10 and 15 miles wide. Within this relatively small land area, there are 46 different soil types (which is more than in all of France).  In addition, as the natural topography influences the movement of cooler air from the San Francisco Bay northward up the Valley, numerous pockets of this cooler air, or micro-climates, are formed.

This natural combining of geology, topography, soils and climate also influences the character of the wines.  The specific combination of these factors imprints recognizable aromatic and fruit characteristics on grapes grown in specific locations. 

This has been acknowledged in the designation of American Viticultural Areas (AVA’s) within the Napa Valley.  The AVA system gives recognition to the overall high quality and unique sensory profiles of wines produced from grapes grown within defined boundaries.

That said, the role of man cannot be overlooked in the ultimate realization of maximum wine quality from a specific location.  Myriad decisions of vine spacing, rootstock, varietal (clone), trellis design, pruning method, ripeness determination, picking date, fermentation regime, choice of yeast, barrel selection, aging and blending decisions and numerous other factors are key determinants of wine quality. 

These decisions will greatly influence how well the winemaker achieves ultimate wine quality and the style that he or she seeks within the constraints of the vineyard's terroir. 

In subsequent writings I will explore how the concept of terroir fits into our own wine program at Robert Craig Winery and the wines we produce from various AVA’s in the Napa Valley.

Two Great (Easy) Appetizers from Elaine Bell

~ Lynn Craig

 For the past 8 years, Chef Elaine Bell been the creative force behind the delicious and Cabernet-friendly cuisine that we serve at the Valentine’s Candlelight Dinner, held for our Cabernet Club at the Robert Craig Winery on Howell Mountain.

Cabernet Club guests at this year’s event were wowed by two appetizers featured during the reception.  Elaine has graciously agreed to share the recipes with us.  Enjoy!

 Rosemary Grape Salad
About 10 - 40 servings as part of a cheese board

Our Cab Clubbers loved this simple but show-stopping presentation of red flame grapes served with a selection of cheeses, fresh breads and crackers. 

I made this dish for our recent Spring Release Open House at the Tasting Salon and received lots of compliments and questions about the ingredients.  I've adjusted the amount of olive oil just a bit, as all that's needed is a light coating on the bunches.  After tossing the grapes in the oil mixture, remove to a serving bowl and leave behind any left-over oil.

1 - 4 pounds Red Flame Grapes (or other seasonal, seedless red varieties)
1 - 3 Tbs Olive Oil (a fruity-style, cold-pressed, extra virgin oil is best)
1 - 3 Sprigs of Rosemary, finely chopped
1/4 - 1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 - 1/4 tsp. pepper

Mix together the olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Toss the grape bunches in the oil and place in serving bowl.

Chickpea Fries
Makes about 5 dozen

This clever take on French fries was a big hit at the reception. Crunchy, full of flavor, and great with Cabernet!

1 onion, finely chopped
2 Tbs garlic, finely chopped
3 cups milk      
1/2 cup butter
1 1/4 cups chickpea flour
1 cup Asiago Cheese, shredded

Heat onion, garlic, milk and butter slightly. Add chickpea flour all at once and stir vigorously with a whisk.

Stir continuously with a wooden spoon over low heat until mixture thickens, then cook 5 minutes more.  Stir in the cheese.

Spread onto a greased pan, smooth out and chill. Cut fries into sticks. Toss lightly in flour and deep fry until golden at 325 degrees.

Serve with Rosemary Aioli
 
1 1/2 cups Mayonnaise
2 Tbs Lemon Juice
1 Tbs Rosemary, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine well and chill.

2008 Affinity ~ Cabernet Sauvignon Elevated

Affinity, Robert Craig's Bordeaux-style blend from the Mt. George foothills just south of Stag's Leap in Napa Valley, is a long-time favorite of Cabernet Sauvignon fans, with its luscious fruit and smooth elegance. For the newly released 2008 vintage, we've put together this video celebration of Affinity from its beginnings in our vineyards to your table. Tasting notes can be found in the "Wines" tab on our Facebook page or on our website. Enjoy!

   

A Perfect Pairing ~ 2008 Affinity & Poggio Steak

~ Elton Slone, Robert Craig General Mgr & Partner

NOTE: Excerpts from this article appear in our Spring/Summer 2011 Newsletter - click here for the on-line edition with info. on the 2008 Affinity, 2008 Mt. Veeder and more recipes.

Each Spring, when the Robert Craig Affinity and Mt. Veeder Cabernets are shipped to our Cabernet Club, we recommend that our Clubbers allow the wine to "rest" for a week to recover from shipping, then pop open a bottle with (worthy) friends or family members to see how this year’s wine tastes when young and vibrant.

Affinity has always been the Craig version of Brunello di Montalcino; powerful and structured yet supple, sleek, polished and layered.  While the new 2008 Affinity is no exception, the high skin-to-juice ratio in this vintage emphasizes the “powerful” and “structured” side.  Early sampling requires BEEF for maximum enjoyment!

One of the great steaks in the Bay Area quietly resides at Poggio Trattoria in downtown Sausalito, CA, where chef and partner Peter McNee has worked over the last 5 years to create a gem of a restaurant for locals and traveling foodies. Despite the Italian-centric wine program, they sell a good deal of our Affinity Cabernet there.  

While sampling a bottle of the newly arrived 08 Affinity with my girl PB recently, we enjoyed the open-flame, oak-grilled Bistecca for two with a side of sautéed spinach. The large wine glass of supple Affinity Cabernet paired with that amazing Porterhouse led me to ask some questions of Peter. I do this research in service to you, our Cabernet clubbers and fans, no matter how arduous the task! 

How did you become attached to Italian cuisine, and what appeals most to you about it?

I spent a year in Italy, cooking in a number of restaurants and living with a host family. This life experience taught me a lot about the culture, people and food of Italy.

What is the key to cooking great Bistecca fiorentino? Is it the oak grilled fire? The meat? The olive oil? The salt? How do I cook it at home?

The oak does make it special. But, if you don’t have a wood-burning grill you can still make a great steak. Just make sure to cook (burn) your meat over a really high heat. Choose a steak with good marbling, season aggressively and char the steak to whatever temperature you prefer. Let it rest before slicing it and of course finish it with good sea salt and virgin olive oil. It’s that simple.

What is your favorite dish to cook at home?

Spaghetti Carbonara. It’s the simplicity of it; dried pasta, good guanciale (that's Roman-style bacon), egg, pecorino cheese and black pepper. Everything in balance and dinner is done in 15 minutes flat.

(Editor's note:  Click here for a discussion of this classic dish and recipe.) 

What do you like most about Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon?

Its ability to pair with meats cooked over a wood fire. For example, we spit roast pig, rabbit, goat and lamb over wood in our rotisserie and grill steaks, fish and chicken too. These meats pick up so much wood flavor because of the smoke and the char. In turn, Napa Valley Cabernets enhance and pair so well with this cooking style.

Describe your philosophy of cooking. 

Write a menu after you have picked your ingredients. Go into the kitchen with a clear head, shop at the farmers’ market, and then create your menu. Don’t over-complicate the food. More often than not, less is better. Fewer ingredients will let the food shine.

For more info. about Poggio Trattoria and reservations, click here or call 415-332-7771.

So, my friends, there you have the perfect match for the newly arrived 2008 Affinity - go shopping, fire up the grill, pop the cork and enjoy!

Cheers,

Elton

 

 

 

We're Officially "Green" ~ Napa Green Winery & Land Program

   
~ Robert Craig

We are very pleased to announce that our winery has qualified for the Napa Green Vineyard certification. Combined with our earlier Napa Green Winery Certification, we have a sustainable environmental program from the vineyards all the way through the winemaking process.  

The Napa Green certification applies to our Howell Mountain and Affinity estate vineyards and to our winery facility on Howell Mountain.

Napa Green encompasses the wine industry’s most comprehensive “best practices” for land-use and wine production. It's a voluntary program which is open to all Napa County vintners and grape growers and is certified by state and county agencies.

When we decided to participate in this program, both on the vineyard and winery side, I knew that the process would involve an extensive amount of detailed information and would be greatly time consuming.  For those reasons, we decided to tackle the vineyard certification in 2009 and focus on the winery the following year.

In early 2009, we enrolled our vineyards in the Fish Friendly Farming Certification Program, sponsored by the California Land Stewardship Foundation.  The focus of this organization is to maintain a high standard of water quality in the streams and rivers of our state, with wildlife protection as a primary objective.

The overall scope of the program is, however, much more expansive than the name indicates, covering all aspects of Best Management Practices in farming. It includes detailed analysis of erosion control measures, vineyard management practices, use of materials and all other factors in vineyard operations. 

Our vineyard manager Carlos Mendez and I worked on collecting and summarizing the data for our vineyards. Then the professional staff at Fish Friendly Farming reviewed our practices, made recommendations, and performed on-site inspections of the properties. That portion of the process took until late 2009 to complete.

The final inspections for State of California certification carried over into 2010.  With substantial cuts in budgets at the state level, fewer inspectors were available to cover the statewide scope of the program. 

Late last year, the inspectors were able to fit our vineyards into their schedule, and we were approved for environmental certification. Due to the backlog of paperwork at the state level, we are still awaiting receipt of the official certification document.

Green certification for the winery followed a different process.  We enrolled in the Napa Green winery environmental program, administered by the Napa Valley Vintners Association, in early 2010.  The program uses an extensive questionnaire template adapted for winery operations from the Bay Area Green Business Program format. 

Our Cellar Master, J.P. Formento, agreed to take responsibility for the work necessary to achieve certification.  Complete water and power usage audits were performed and every aspect of our facilities and business practices was scrutinized. 

This detailed information was submitted to the Napa County Department of Environmental Management for their review, physical inspection, comments and final approval.  J.P. did a great job and the winery received environmental certification in the Fall of 2010, shortly after final inspection and approval by the Environmental Management Department.

Napa Green is the wine industry’s most respected environmental sustainability program and all of us here at the Robert Craig Winery are pleased and proud that we took the time and put forth the effort to become participants.  We learned a lot in the process and have an all-around better company as a result.

For more information on the Napa Green land and winery programs, click on this link: http://www.napagreen.org/

GO GREEN!

Robert Craig

Holiday Greetings from Robert Craig Winery

  

 

Thanks for your friendship and support during the past year.

Let's raise a toast for a great 2011!

9th Annual Valentine Candlelight Dinner, Feb. 12th, 2011

   

Join us in the "Tunnel of Love" for a memorable Cabernet Club evening on Howell Mountain, Saturday, February 12, 2011. RSVP to Rachel at rachel@robertcraigwine.com ASAP!  Here are some scenes from our previous Valentine dinners at the Robert Craig Winery to get you in the spirit of this fun event!

Stephen Tebb Interview ~ the Challenges of Making Mountain Cabernets

Editor's note:  Winemaker Stephen Tebb has just finished his second full harvest and crush at the Craig Winery on Howell Mountain. Before harvest got underway, we interviewed him about the pleasures and challenges of making mountain Cabernets.  This interview is included in our Fall 2010 Newsletter ~ to view the complete newsletter, click here to open up the web version.

  When did you first become interested in vineyards?  During the summers I spent working in my Uncle’s orchard and vineyard in the Yakima Valley of Central Washington from the time I was 8 years old.  I loved the excitement and intensity of harvest, whether cherries or pears, and the camaraderie of working hard together as a family.

What inspired you to become a winemaker? As more of our farm acreage was being planted to vineyards, I intended to study viticulture at UC-Davis.  Yet, while growing grapes had become second nature, I was intrigued by the microbiology and chemistry of what happens to grapes after harvest.  So I decided that winemaking, which combines being a farmer, scientist and artist, was about as good as it gets!

Why did you choose to return to Napa Valley after such a successful career on the Central Coast?  I had spent 12 years in the Valley and my friends and family are here.  It was a great challenge to broaden my horizons and work with different growing regions and varietals, but eventually the prospect of getting back to Napa Valley and focusing on mountain Cabernets was irresistible.

Sum up your winemaking philosophy for Cabernet Sauvignon. First of all, a Cabernet should tell the story of its origin in the aromas and flavors.  My job is to capture that essence and then to produce a wine that combines power and grace.  I seek a balance in the interplay between fruit and tannin, acid and alcohol so that no single component overpowers the rest.  When this unity is achieved, it’s like a symphony or a mosaic. Also, I want the aroma of the wine to invite a taste and to have that promise fulfilled in the flavors, so that it becomes a rewarding experience.

What is the most challenging aspect of working with mountain vineyards?  They require a high level of attention to each individual vine, whether in pruning, crop adjustment, soil nutrition or irrigation. While the Valley floor is more uniform, mountain soils and exposures vary tremendously.  We must be very hands-on and out in each vine row, making decisions constantly.

What is the most important thing to get right at harvest? Everything! There is no one aspect that can be overlooked.  That’s why it is so exciting.  What has been done earlier in the growing season influences the harvest.  Also, picking time is critical - this is where art and science intersect.  Everything is dependent upon fruit quality and ripeness.

What qualities of a Napa Valley mountain Cabernet do you most enjoy? The special character that each mountain imparts to the wine from that source.  Robert Craig Cabernets are a terrific example of this.  When you taste them side-by-side, it’s amazing how distinctive they are.  Year after year, each one possesses the unique aromas and flavors that could only come from that mountain.

What is the most difficult aspect of making mountain Cabernets?  Keeping the truck tires from wearing out too quickly!  We travel lots of twisty roads to cover all our vineyard territory, from Mt. Veeder and Affinity in the south to Spring and Howell Mountains in the north. Also, mountain Cabernets are not shy in the tannin department, so it’s crucial to extract all the grapes’ power and intensity during fermentation, while keeping the tannins smooth and polished.

What newest equipment has been introduced to benefit the winemaking?  Our goal is always to handle the fruit as gently as possible to achieve the goals I just mentioned.  Every year, we’ve added new equipment for crush, fermentation and barrel management. This year we’ve replaced the traditional auger or screw in the crusher with a conveyor belt to move the grapes to the destemmer and keep them whole.  We’ve also added a press hopper to transport  the “must” or juice via gravity from tanks to the press instead of using an auger.  Such improvements help to ensure that the best quality wine ends up in the barrel.

What is the most fond wine-related memory for you and your wife? For our one-year wedding anniversary, we climbed the northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite.  When we stopped for the night on a ledge called “big sandy,” Kathleen pulled out a bottle she had hidden in the haul bag. It was a Spanish red wine from the Ribera del Duero.  I’ll always remember sipping that wine and watching the hawks catch the thermals as the Valley went into shadow and we became part of the alpenglow.

What are some of your favorite wine-food pairings? Pinot Noir with Copper River Sockeye Salmon grilled on a cedar plank or grass-fed New York steak with a mountain Cabernet.

Christmas Eve Chowder ~ or for any special occasion!

~ Bryan Craig

Tired of turkey and ready for a change of pace before Christmas Day festivities?  We have the perfect solution: a zesty, luscious seafood chowder, brimming with choice morsels of shrimp, crab, and other goodies.  Best of all, it can be prepared the day before to make dinner a snap.  Just add a small salad and crusty bread to the menu and you have a memorable Christmas Eve feast. 

If you’re on the West Coast, Dungeness crab season is well underway – elsewhere use any type of available crab – you can also use the canned variety and make the stock with shrimp shells only.

And of course, don’t forget the new 2009 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (available on our website shopping cart)!  The bright, crisp fruit flavors are a perfect match for this dish.

~ Bryan Craig

Seafood Chowder

Serves 6-8

Best if prepared the day before serving

1 ½ lbs. medium shrimp

¾ lb. red snapper, sea bass or halibut (thinly sliced fillets/pieces)

1 ½ lbs. of cooked crab in the shell (King, Snow, Dungeness)

1 leek

1 pint (2 cups) heavy cream

5 garlic cloves

1 quart (4 cups) whole milk

1 ear of corn

6 Yukon Gold potatoes.

1 carrot

Italian parsley

2 sticks butter

¼ cup flour

1 quart (4 cups) vegetable stock

3 tsp. olive oil

blackening seasoning (Cajun’s Choice, Zatarain’s, Old Bay, Emeril’s)

cayenne pepper

hot paprika

white wine (low-priced, unoaked Chardonnay is best)

Peel and clean the shrimp and crab, saving the shells. In a stock pot, bring 5 cups of water to a boil. Add shells and 4 dashes of hot paprika. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes over medium low heat. Remove cover and bring back to a rolling boil (over medium high heat) for 15 minutes. Strain liquid into bowl and set aside.

At the same time, cut leek in half and soak in water for 20 minutes. Rinse leek to make sure there is no remaining grit. Slice the white and light green portion of the leek. Add sliced leek, heavy cream, whole milk and whole garlic cloves to a medium saucepan. Steep leeks over medium heat for 15 minutes. Do not boil! After the liquid cools slightly, puree mixture in a blender. Set aside.

Clean the ear of corn, removing the silk. Carefully cut off the kernels; position the ear upright and slice down. Put a paper towel under the ear so that it doesn’t slip when cutting (or the Kuhn Rikon Corn Zipper is a handy gadget and available on-line or in specialty cookware stores).

Rinse, peel and cut potatoes and carrot into ½ inch cubes. Add 4 Tbps. of butter and olive oil to a large, very hot skillet. Immediately add the potatoes, carrot and corn with ¼ tsp. of blackening seasoning. Brown for 3-4 minutes.

In the stock pot, melt 1 stick of butter over medium low heat. When butter is melted, whisk ¼ cup of flour into the butter and stir for 10 minutes over low heat until well-blended but not browned.

Add shrimp/crab stock, vegetable stock, ½ bottle of  white wine, leek puree, crab meat and 3 dashes of cayenne pepper to stock pot. Simmer for 30 minutes over medium to medium high heat. Do not boil!

Add potato/carrot/corn mixture and simmer for 15 minutes or until tender. Reduce to low heat.

Using a paper towel, dry the shrimp and cut into bite- sized pieces. Remove bones from fish (if any) but leave in whole fillets or large chunks. Dust with blackening seasoning on one side of fillet.

To a very hot skillet add 1 Tbsp. of butter and ½ tsp. of olive oil. Immediately add the shrimp and quickly sear for 10- 15 seconds and add to stock pot. Add another ½ tsp. olive oil to the hot skillet and sear fish on seasoned side for 20-30 seconds. Add to stock pot (fish fillets will break apart in the broth).

Add ¼ cup of chopped Italian parsley, a splash of white wine, 3 dashes of Crystal or Tabasco, ¼ tsp. black pepper and 2 tsp. of salt to stock and simmer on low for 10 min. or until shrimp/white fish are cooked.   Do not boil!

Harvest & Crush 2010

The leaves are falling off the vines, but the weather is amazingly warm for November in Napa Valley and our intrepid winery crew is just finishing up with crush.  Grapes were still coming into the winery last week -- which must be a record for the past 18 harvests at Robert Craig! 

Thanks for managing a great crush to winemaker Stephen Tebb and his crew, J P Formento, Sean Donaghue and intern Carlos Raposo, plus all our friends who pitched in to help. 

Here are some images from Harvest/Crush 2010, following those luscious Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from hand-picking in the vineyard to arrival at the winery, where the bunches are destemmed, sorted, and moved into tanks to begin the 16-18 month journey to the bottle.