Heirloom veggies: preserving a treasure-trove of healthy eats

One of the most laudable trends in agriculture today is the movement to preserve heirloom vegetables and grains.   So much of what we eat comes from industrialized, highly mechanized farms which rely upon only a few specialized types of crops. As a result, thousands of non-commercial crop varieties have disappeared or are in danger of vanishing around the world.

We first became aware of this a few years ago when Bob and I took a trip to northern Mexico with a group called Native Seeds Search, which has been rescuing, propagating and distributing the seeds of ancient crops and wild varieties in the Southwest for over 25 years. We were amazed to learn of the treasure-trove of seed varieties that this Tucson-based non-profit has amassed and of their work with native communities to reintroduce and promote these crops. Another organization doing similar work on an even broader scale is the Seed Savers Exchange.

A growing number of sustainable farmers are also preserving agricultural variety and protecting biodiversity by raising heirloom crops.  One of my favorite examples is Steve Sando's Rancho Gordo, the Napa-based purveyor of over 30 varieties of heirloom beans from Mexico, Peru, Colombia and the American Southwest – rarer, older, intensely flavorful breeds rejected by industrial agriculture because yields can be small.

Celebrity chef Thomas Keller, of The French Laundry and Per Se, was his first chef-customer and he helped to put Steve on the culinary map when he wrote the forward to the Heirloom Bean cookbook.

I love trying the many fantastic varieties of beans that Steve makes available on his website – black and white ones, speckled, pink, purple, bright yellow – each with a unique flavor and consistency.  Somehow, a bubbling pot of beans on the stove makes a kitchen much more cheery, especially during the winter months.

The following recipe uses the Italian Cannellini bean which, you might be surprised to know, originated in South America and found its way to Europe, where the Italians made it into a national staple.  It's now showing up more frequently on our grocery store shelves.

This is a featured side dish at A16 Restaurant, one of our favorite San Francisco dining spots in the Marina District, which showcases the cuisine of southern Italy.  While their wine list is predominantly Italian, we are always pleased to have the Craig represented from time to time. The recipe is also in the prize-winning A16 Food + Wine cookbook. 

You'll enjoy this rich and flavorful accompaniment to braised meats or roast chicken, or as a wonderful vegetarian main course with a tossed salad and French or sourdough bread.  Dried, not canned, beans are a "must"  – not to mention a bottle of Robert Craig Affinity to go with dinner!

Enjoy in good health!

Lynn Craig

Braised Cannellini Beans with Garlic, Marjoram and Oregano
From A16 Food + Wine Cookbook ~ available on the A16 website
2 cups dried Cannellini beans (available from http://www.ranchogordo.com or specialty grocery stores)
2 tsp. Kosher salt
3/4 cup virgin olive oil + more for serving
2 cloves garlic, smashed with side of knife
1 bay leaf
1/4 tsp. dried oregano
1 Tbsp. fresh marjoram leaves, minced
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs, toasted

Serves 6

1.  Rinse beans, picking out any broken beans or pebbles. Cover with cool water let soak for at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.
2.  Drain beans, transfer to 3-quart pot. Add water to cover by 1 to 2 inches.  Bring to boil and adjust heat to slow simmer.  Cook uncovered, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, for 2 hours or until tender.  Add water as needed to keep covered.
3.  Remove from heat.  Stir in salt and let beans stand in cooking liquid for 30 minutes.  Drain beans, reserving 3/4 cup of cooking liquid.
4.  In a pot, heat olive oil over medium heat.  Add garlic, bay leaf and oregano and cook for  3-4 min. or until garlic begins to soften but not brown (take care not to burn garlic).  Stir in beans and the 3/4 cup cooking liquid. 
5.  Simmer, stirring gently, for about 4 min. or until beans have a creamy consistency (beans should just hold their shape).  If too thick, stir in a little water.  Stir in marjoram, taste for seasoning and add salt as needed.  Remove from heat (at this point, beans can be cooled, covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week – reheat gently).
6.  To serve, top with toasted bread crumbs and a drizzle of olive oil to finish.