Editor's note: Winemaker Stephen Tebb has just finished his second full harvest and crush at the Craig Winery on Howell Mountain. Before harvest got underway, we interviewed him about the pleasures and challenges of making mountain Cabernets. This interview is included in our Fall 2010 Newsletter ~ to view the complete newsletter, click here to open up the web version.
When did you first become interested in vineyards? During the summers I spent working in my Uncle’s orchard and vineyard in the Yakima Valley of Central Washington from the time I was 8 years old. I loved the excitement and intensity of harvest, whether cherries or pears, and the camaraderie of working hard together as a family.
What inspired you to become a winemaker? As more of our farm acreage was being planted to vineyards, I intended to study viticulture at UC-Davis. Yet, while growing grapes had become second nature, I was intrigued by the microbiology and chemistry of what happens to grapes after harvest. So I decided that winemaking, which combines being a farmer, scientist and artist, was about as good as it gets!
Why did you choose to return to Napa Valley after such a successful career on the Central Coast? I had spent 12 years in the Valley and my friends and family are here. It was a great challenge to broaden my horizons and work with different growing regions and varietals, but eventually the prospect of getting back to Napa Valley and focusing on mountain Cabernets was irresistible.
Sum up your winemaking philosophy for Cabernet Sauvignon. First of all, a Cabernet should tell the story of its origin in the aromas and flavors. My job is to capture that essence and then to produce a wine that combines power and grace. I seek a balance in the interplay between fruit and tannin, acid and alcohol so that no single component overpowers the rest. When this unity is achieved, it’s like a symphony or a mosaic. Also, I want the aroma of the wine to invite a taste and to have that promise fulfilled in the flavors, so that it becomes a rewarding experience.
What is the most challenging aspect of working with mountain vineyards? They require a high level of attention to each individual vine, whether in pruning, crop adjustment, soil nutrition or irrigation. While the Valley floor is more uniform, mountain soils and exposures vary tremendously. We must be very hands-on and out in each vine row, making decisions constantly.
What is the most important thing to get right at harvest? Everything! There is no one aspect that can be overlooked. That’s why it is so exciting. What has been done earlier in the growing season influences the harvest. Also, picking time is critical - this is where art and science intersect. Everything is dependent upon fruit quality and ripeness.
What qualities of a Napa Valley mountain Cabernet do you most enjoy? The special character that each mountain imparts to the wine from that source. Robert Craig Cabernets are a terrific example of this. When you taste them side-by-side, it’s amazing how distinctive they are. Year after year, each one possesses the unique aromas and flavors that could only come from that mountain.
What is the most difficult aspect of making mountain Cabernets? Keeping the truck tires from wearing out too quickly! We travel lots of twisty roads to cover all our vineyard territory, from Mt. Veeder and Affinity in the south to Spring and Howell Mountains in the north. Also, mountain Cabernets are not shy in the tannin department, so it’s crucial to extract all the grapes’ power and intensity during fermentation, while keeping the tannins smooth and polished.
What newest equipment has been introduced to benefit the winemaking? Our goal is always to handle the fruit as gently as possible to achieve the goals I just mentioned. Every year, we’ve added new equipment for crush, fermentation and barrel management. This year we’ve replaced the traditional auger or screw in the crusher with a conveyor belt to move the grapes to the destemmer and keep them whole. We’ve also added a press hopper to transport the “must” or juice via gravity from tanks to the press instead of using an auger. Such improvements help to ensure that the best quality wine ends up in the barrel.
What is the most fond wine-related memory for you and your wife? For our one-year wedding anniversary, we climbed the northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite. When we stopped for the night on a ledge called “big sandy,” Kathleen pulled out a bottle she had hidden in the haul bag. It was a Spanish red wine from the Ribera del Duero. I’ll always remember sipping that wine and watching the hawks catch the thermals as the Valley went into shadow and we became part of the alpenglow.
What are some of your favorite wine-food pairings? Pinot Noir with Copper River Sockeye Salmon grilled on a cedar plank or grass-fed New York steak with a mountain Cabernet.