The Craig

Holiday Comfort Food ~ Boneless Beef Short Ribs alla Genovese

'Tis the Holiday season and time for dinner parties.  The question is how to cook a great meal for a hungry crowd in between working, gift shopping, card sending and all the other demands of late December.  This recipe is the perfect answer.  It is true comfort food that appeals to everyone (well, not vegetarians), is easy to prepare, and can be made the day before -- in fact it's best when refrigerated overnight. 

We've adapted this recipe from the short ribs at A16 Restaurant in San Francisco, Shelley Lindgren's terrific Marina-area bistro featuring southern-Italy cuisine -- and Robert Craig Affinity!  It serves 12 - 16 and leftovers keep well in the freezer, but you can also cut the recipe in half for smaller groups.

This is a rich, hearty dish that goes well with mashed potatoes or polenta and a green salad. Best of all, it's the perfect match for luscious Craig Cabernets! 

~ Lynn Craig

Boneless Beef Short Ribs alla Genovese

Note: You can use regular bone-in short ribs, but we prefer the boneless kind, which can be ordered from your neighborhood butcher or supermarket meat department.

6 pounds boneless beef short ribs (or 8 lbs with bone in)
Kosher salt
1/2 cup olive oil
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 anchovies (optional)
2 whole cloves
8 black peppercorns
4 large onions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
1 bottle red wine, reduced to 3/4 cup (we use a lower-priced Merlot or Cabernet)
1 cup beef broth
12 sprigs fresh Rosemary
1 small can tomato paste

Start 2 days before serving.  Season the short ribs generously with kosher salt.  Cover & refrigerate overnight.

The next day, pour the bottle of red wine in a saucepan and bring to medium boil.  Continue to boil until reduced to 3/4 cup (approx. 20 - 30 minutes).  Heat oven to 275 degrees. In a large heavy-bottom pot, heat 1/4 cup olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the short ribs, a few at a time, to brown.  Transfer to large platter or bowl and reserve.

Pour out the fat, add another 1/4 cup oil, carrot and celery to the pot.  Saute over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to brown. Add anchovies (optional), cloves and peppercorns.  Cook a few minutes more and add onions.  Season with 1 tsp. salt.  Cook until onions are soft, scraping up any brown bits from the pan. Add red-wine vinegar, the reduced red wine and beef broth, stir to combine and remove from the heat.

Place ribs and any juice that has accumulated in a braising or roasting pot and pour sauce over them.  Add rosemary sprigs. Cover pot with its lid (or foil) and bake at 275 degrees until the meat is soft and yielding -- approx. 3 - 4 hours (meat should be very easy to cut with a knife). Do your gift wrapping, card addressing or other chores while the ribs cook.  Place the ribs/sauce in refrigerator overnight.

The next day, skim off the fat that has accumulated on the surface (easy to do when the sauce is cold).  Remove short ribs from the sauce. (Optional: If you like a smooth sauce, put the sauce through a fine mesh sieve, pressing the vegetables to get out all the liquid, and discard the veggies). Add tomato paste to the sauce, reheat and simmer for 30 minutes.  Return ribs to the pan and continue simmering until they are heated through. 

Note:  Any leftovers are great on pasta, topped with parmesan.  Or freeze and enjoy later!

The Best Parmesan-Asiago Dip

This time around, I'm including a recipe that my Mom whips up for events at our Robert Craig Tasting Room in Downtown Napa. It's best made a day ahead. People always go crazy for this dip or spread and usually ask how to make it.  It's very easy (although you do need a food processor) and goes great with Chardonnay, Cabernet or just about any wine.  We serve it with slices of crusty sour or sweet French bread (baguette-size is best).  Mom usually doubles the recipe and freezes half -- it just seems to get better!

Enjoy! Bryan Craig 

Parmesan-Asiago Dip

1-1/2 cups extra-virgin, cold-press olive oil. A lower-priced brand is fine. (Trader Joe's President's Reserve label is a favorite.)
1/2 lb. Parmesan cheese and 1/2 lb. Asiago cheese (or other hard cheeses), cut into 1-inch cubes
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 tsp. fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Freshly cracked black pepper
Two green onion tops, chopped

Process olive oil, cheese, garlic, oregano and red pepper in a food processor until cheese is a coarse texture (don't over-process, should still have small chunks).  Add ground black pepper to taste. Best made the day before and refrigerated overnight to allow flavors to mingle. Place in serving bowl and sprinkle with green onions. Serve with sliced French or Sourdough baguettes or crackers. Leftovers can be frozen.

Veggie Moussaka

This crowd-pleaser is the creation of one of my good friends and cooking homies, Kelly Thompson, a professional chef in Santa Monica.  When Kelly whips up this delectable Moussaka, people come from miles around for a sample!  If you haven't tried Moussaka before, it's rich, healthy, satisfying and easy to serve at parties.  Moussaka can be any dish of vegetables layered with fresh tomato and béchamel sauces, but most often it's made with eggplant.  Right now is a great time for this dish with fresh eggplant available everywhere. Even those who normally aren't wild about eggplant (like myself) will love this dish -- and it's even better the next day! 

If you must have meat, just add browned, lean ground beef or lamb (1 pound) to the tomato sauce.

Pair With: 2007 Robert Craig Mt. George Cuvee (Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend)

Enjoy!  Bryan Craig

VEGGIE MOUSSAKA

Makes 8-10 servings 

Ingredients

• 3 MEDIUM EGGPLANTS
  
• 3 CUPS BREAD CRUMBS
• 2 EGGS
• 1/2-CUP MILK
• 1-1/2 CUP FLOUR
• OIL FOR FRYING
• TOMATO SAUCE
• BECHAMEL SAUCE
• 2 CUPS CRUMBLED FETA CHEESE
• 2 CUPS PARMIGIANA REGGIANO, SHREDDED
• I BUNCH GREEN ONIONS, THINLY SLICED

STEP ONE: Tomato Sauce

• 1 small can tomato paste
  
• 1 large can whole tomatoes, break up by squishing in hand
• 1 large can crushed tomatoes
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 small pkg mushrooms (whatever you want), diced
• 5 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp dried basil
• 1/2 tbsp dried oregano
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• Salt, pepper, and some sugar to taste

PREPARATION - Heat a stockpot on medium heat.  Add 1 tbsp olive oil and sauté the onion and mushrooms till tender.  Add the minced garlic and dried herbs and cook for a minute.  Add the 3 tomato products.  Simmer on low heat for 45 minutes.  Season to taste.

STEP TWO: Béchamel Sauce

• 2 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp flour
• 2 cups milk
• Salt and white pepper

PREPARATION - Heat milk in a saucepan to warm.  In a separate saucepan melt the butter on medium heat.  Add the flour and cook for a minute stirring occasionally.  Add the warm milk whisking as you pour.   After combined, let the mixture come to a boil stirring frequently.   Turn off heat and season to taste.

STEP THREE: Eggplant

PREPARATION - Heat oil in a large skillet.  Oil should come up a third of the pan. Cut of tops of eggplant.  Peel the skin off.  Lay eggplant on its side.  Cut in 1/2-inch slices.  Lay slices on a baking sheet and salt generously.  Let sit for 20 minutes.  In a bowl, whisk eggs and milk together.  In a separate bowl combine bread crumbs with 2 tsp kosher salt and 2 tsp fresh cracked pepper.  Place the flour in a bowl or plate.  Start the breading process by dipping the eggplant slices in the flour, egg wash, then the breadcrumbs.  Fry till golden brown and place on paper towels to drain off excess fat.

PUTTING TOGETHER

Heat oven to 350 degrees.
In a 9 x 13 lasagna pan, spread some tomato sauce on the bottom.
Next, arrange the eggplant slices making a solid layer.  Sprinkle with crumbled feta and drizzle with béchamel.  Top this with tomato sauce and start the layers over.  Making sure to have 3 layers of eggplant and ending with the feta and béchamel on top.  Sprinkle with Parmesan and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes or till nice and bubbly.  

Cut into squares and sprinkle with sliced green onions.

The Best Salsa

This has been a pet project of mine for a while— to make a great “restaurant” style salsa. You know the kind; it forces you to fill up on chips before the burro shows up. Simple, red and delicious. After trial and error (and a few strange cooked versions) I’ve discovered the secret that Mexican restaurateurs have been guarding with their lives— 3 different chilies and TIME!!!  It’s great after 2 hours in the fridge but if you want the ultimate pay-off, let it mellow for 2 days!

1 large can (28oz.) of Whole Peeled Tomatoes
1 Serrano Chili*
1 Jalapeno Chili*
8 Dried Arbol Chilies* (available at any major market in the Latin foods area)
2 Green Onions (Scallions)
1 cup of White Onion
3 cloves of Garlic
1/2 cup Cilantro (I know some of you dislike Cilantro, but get over it unless you’re allergic— every restaurant salsa has it!)
Juice of 1-2 Limes (depending on how juicy they are)
1 tsp Salt

As I said, TIME is the key to this salsa. Roughly chop the White Onion and remove the dark green section from the Green Onions. Remove the stems, seeds and veins from the Chilies. Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree. Pour into a bowl, cover and place in the fridge for AT LEAST 2 hours. Be sure to check the seasoning when you’re ready to serve; you may prefer more Salt as the flavors combine and mellow over time.

This serves a small party— I would recommend doubling/tripling the recipe and freezing and/or putting it on everything for a couple of weeks.

*FOR THE EXTREME
I like it hot so I leave the seeds and veins in the Chilies (especially the Serrano) but I would suggest removing them for the first try. You can always set the seeds and veins aside and blend them in to taste.

Cheers,

Bryan Craig

Cioppino di Craig

Let me start off by saying, (since this is the first recipe of mine that you’re reading) that this is my interpretation of a classic recipe. I like to experiment. One of the best things about cooking is taking a dish from your favorite restaurant and making it your own.  I would challenge all of you to use the CC recipes as an outline for a signature dish. It’s all about having a glass of vino and some fun (with a little classical technique) . . . and please send me your creations!

The first dish is Cioppino. It’s an Italian seafood stew invented by hungry, gifted fishermen in the City by the Bay. As when it was conceived, there is no specific blend of seafood required to prepare this delicious concoction; use a mixture of whatever seafood you can get fresh or in reasonable shape. There are a couple of sea-dwellers that are required in my opinion — but I'll give you some favorites and you can take the line.

Enjoy!

Bryan Craig

Wine to serve:  Robert Craig 2007 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay of course!

Cioppino di Craig

1 1/2 lbs Clams (Manila or Littleneck) required
1 lb Mussels
1 lb Red Snapper Filets (or Halibut, Flounder or other mild white fish)
1 lb Medium Shrimp (with shells)
2 Whole Cooked, Cleaned and Cracked Crabs (Blue, Dungeness) required – but Lump Meat or King Crab Legs will work.  Have the store clean/crack the crab if possible, or do this at home.
1 lb Squid (Calamari sliced raw or whole – see note below*)

Seafood prep:
Sort Clams and Mussels – discard if the shells are noticeably open, clean Clams and Mussels with brush or cloth under cold, running water to remove any leftover grit; dry with a towel.

Cut Snapper Filets into 1-1/2 in cubes and check for bones.

Peel and de-vein Shrimp; save the Shrimp shells if making your own seafood broth – see note below.* 

Pick out the Crab meat from the body and claws; set aside the legs and large shell pieces (body) for stock.

If you can’t get sliced, raw Squid and can only get whole — see note below.*

Other items:
1 1/2 cup White Wine
4 cups Seafood Stock (make it yourself or store-bought) – see note below.*
1 cup Chicken Stock
1 Orange
1 large (28 oz.) can Whole Peeled Tomatoes (San Marzano if possible – Whole Foods Markets has it)
1/4 cup fresh Basil
4 cloves Garlic
1 medium White or Sweet Onion
3/4 cup Olive Oil
2 Bay Leaves
2 French or Sourdough Baguettes for dipping

Making a great tomato sauce is a key to this Cioppino and it's very easy. Start with a medium sauce pan containing 1/2 cup Olive Oil and the Onion and Garlic (roughly chopped) over med. heat. When the vegetables become translucent, add the Tomatoes (crush with your hands – it’s the Italian way!). Add fresh Basil (whole) along with 1-1/2 tsp. Salt and 1 tsp. Black Pepper (I like more S&P but start with this). Simmer on med. for 20 min. Put aside and let cool. Blend in a food processor or blender until smooth and put 1 cup aside as a dip for bread while cooking.

The Clam/Mussel Broth starts with a deep sauté pan containing 1/4 cup Olive Oil over med-high heat. When the Oil starts to smoke, carefully drop in the Clams and Mussels.  Sauté for 1 min., then pour in 3/4 cup White Wine and cover. The Mussels will open much faster than Clams, so check after 1 minute. Remove Mussels (leave in shell) once they are wide open, place the lid back on and wait another 30 sec. to 1-1/2 min. for the Clams to open. Remove Clams (leave in shell) and discard any Clams or Mussels that did not fully open.  If the broth has grit from the shell fish, strain through cheesecloth and return to pan.

To the Clam/Mussel broth add the Seafood and Chicken Stock with Tomato Sauce and remaining White Wine. Add 1/4 tsp. Orange zest, Bay Leaves and the legs and large shell pieces of Crab. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low and cover – let simmer for 30 min. Remove cover and raise heat to med. – med./high and continue to simmer until the broth color turns from bright orange to a dark orange (approx. 20 min.). Remove Bay Leaves, Crab shells and legs (set legs aside for garnish). Reduce heat back to low and add the claw and body Crab meat, Snapper and Shrimp. Simmer on low for 5 min. Add Clams, Mussels and Squid and simmer for another 3 min.

Ladle into large bowls and garnish with Crab legs and a slice of Orange.

Serves 2-6 depending on the appetites involved.  Serve with green salad and sliced Baguettes for dipping.

*Note: FOR THE EXTREME VERSION

Make your own Seafood Stock and clean those squiggly Calamari (squid) for ultimate freshness!  If you would like to have my recipe for the stock and instructions for cleaning the squid, please send in your request and I'll get back to you.